A first-time guide to Serbia

Set along the Balkans’ spine, in between tourism heavyweights Croatia and Greece, landlocked Serbia isn’t exactly known for bucket-list appearances. Yet the lack of crowds and globally recognizable Instagram-bragging snaps makes the experience of traveling here all the more authentic.

What you will find – and perhaps be surprised by – is diversity, both in terms of nature’s gifts and cultural influences stemming from a stormy history. Needless to say, there’s more to Serbia than its ever-transforming capital. As you traverse the country, striking contrasts are revealed: from the Austro-Hungarian art nouveau of Subotica on the sunflower-coated northern plains where alluvial forests by the Danube echo with the roar of red deer, to the Ottoman-era mosques of Novi Pazar in the windswept Dinaric highlands of the south where griffon vultures prey high above the serpentine Uvac canyon. Bring your curiosity and hit the road.

When should I go to Serbia?

With four distinct seasons and year-round festivities, the best time to visit really depends on your interests. The pleasant weather in spring and fall is ideal for hiking or mountain-biking in Serbia’s national parks and nature reserves. Belgrade’s packed cultural calendar – including the Belgrade Dance Festival in March and the renowned Bitef international theater festival in October – is complemented by exciting sports events.

Summers are scorching, so rafting on Ibar or Lim rivers and kayaking in Ovčar-Kablar gorge or Uvac canyon are great ways to cool off. Major summer music events include Exit in Novi Sad, Nišville jazz festival in Niš and the rowdy Guča trumpet festival in central Serbia.

In winter, hit the slopes of Kopaonik ski resort or go snowshoeing on Golija to escape the crowded trails. Drvengrad village in the western mountains hosts the Küstendorf international film festival in January.

How much time should I spend in Serbia?

For a first-time visit, a long weekend allows you to dive into Belgrade’s heady urban scene with a day devoted to chilling out in Novi Sad, a half-hour ride away by fast train.

A week is reasonable for exploring areas closer to the capital – the northern Vojvodina province or central Šumadija region – rich in tradition and gastronomy and known for thermal spas and wine routes.

With about 10 days, you can choose one (or two!) of the national parks for hiking, cycling and other activities depending on the season, or road-trip the more remote regions where traditional villages and historical attractions await.

Is it easy to get in and around Serbia?

Serbia is well connected with most of Europe and beyond through Belgrade airport plus a smaller one in Niš. Currently, the only international train route links Belgrade with Bar on Montenegro’s Adriatic coast. Because Serbia doesn’t recognize Kosovo border crossings as international ones, arriving from Kosovo may be a problem unless you first entered Kosovo from Serbia.

Within the country, there are solid long-distance bus services. For the fast train between Belgrade and Novi Sad, download the Srbijavoz app. Major car-hire companies have offices at Belgrade airport; street parking is regulated by zones/hours and tickets can often be paid only by SMS. Three EuroVelo routes (6, 11 and 13) pass through Serbia.

On Belgrade public transport, the fare is valid for buses, minibuses, trolleybuses and trams (use the Beograd Plus app). The city’s rideshare app is CarGo, along with Yandex. Novi Sad has a bicycle-sharing system and over 100km (62 miles) of bike paths.

Top things to do in Serbia

Delve into Belgrade’s and Novi Sad’s urban scenes

A city of many faces and past lives, Belgrade retains a touch of Yugoslav-era cool in its brutalist architectural showpieces. Contemplate the booms and busts of its 2300-year existence at Kalemegdan Fortress before exploring contemporary creativity – from street art with Belgrade Art Tours and fashion by emerging designers in Belgrade Design District to reinvented local gastronomy of Iva New Balkan Cuisine and the hip cocktail bars of Dorćol quarter.

The 2022 European Capital of Culture, Novi Sad is defined by its Habsburg-flavored old town and the 18th-century Petrovaradin Fortress that hosts the rocking Exit festival in July. Take in the art galleries showcasing masterpieces from Byzantine to modernist, perhaps catch a classical-music concert in the Secession-style synagogue, and embrace the city’s laid-back spirit by cycling along the Danube or people-watching on Štrand beach.

Get active in the great outdoors of Tara and Ðerdap national parks

Western Serbia’s Tara is a scenic corner of the Dinaric Alps where endangered brown bears still lurk in thick forests. It’s criss-crossed by hiking trails that lead to impressive lookouts above deep canyons, and mountain-biking routes ranging from forest and gravel paths to macadam and asphalt. The green-tinged Drina river and Tara’s two lakes are popular rafting and kayaking spots.

Over in the east, the Carpathian and Balkan mountain ranges meet in dramatic fashion in Ðerdap. Here, the mighty Danube cuts through the limestone cliffs of the Iron Gates gorge to reach the deepest and narrowest points of its entire course. This arresting scenery rewards cyclists tackling the EuroVelo 6 route, hikers conquering the peaks of Mt Miroč and, of course, boat-trippers.

Sample Vojvodinian gastronomy and local wines

A fusion of Mediterranean, Turkish and Hungarian influences, Serbian cuisine is generally seasonal and organic. The champion of local gastronomy is Vojvodina province, where slow-food philosophy is ingrained in the salaši (traditional homesteads) and čarde (riverside taverns) dotting the fertile plains and the banks of the Danube.

Serbia’s centuries-long winemaking tradition means there are numerous wine routes to explore and ancient native varieties such as prokupac (red) and tamjanika (white). The hills of Fruška Gora, just south of Novi Sad, are home to many small family wineries. In eastern Serbia, the villages around Negotin are famous for their 19th-century stone wine cellars, while the southern Župa region still has some equally old and rustic winegrowers’ lodges.

Travel through time in southern Serbia

Heading south of Belgrade, you’ll find the landscape strewn with historical landmarks that provide deeper insight into the country’s soul. Sheltered in a green valley since 1196, Studenica monastery’s white-marble walls featuring Romanesque influences and stunning Byzantine frescoes have earned World Heritage status. The remarkably restored 14th-century Golubac fortress guards the entrance to Ðerdap’s gorge from a rocky promontory, with nine towers offering splendid views of the Danube. On the pine-covered slopes of Zlatibor, Sirogojno open-air museum brings to life a 19th-century rural hamlet with authentic timber-and-stone cabins and old crafts. And the WWII memorial complex of Kadinjača is a grandiose example of Yugoslav socialist modernism, its white-granite monoliths on a mountaintop resembling a futuristic Stonehenge.

My favorite thing to do in Serbia

For me, Serbia is a road-tripping delight. A medley of experiences beckoning in pretty much any direction guarantees a continued sense of discovery: caves, waterfalls, wildlife, spas, wineries, crafts… and lots of history. Tour operators have caught on to this in recent years, so you can also sign up for day or weekend trips through much of the year; check out Serbian Adventures and Explore Serbia.

Tying for my personal highlight is a rural escape. Quiet villages tucked away in unsullied nature are not only the ideal milieu for unwinding but also a genuine slice of local life. Serbian Rural Tourism has plenty of bookable options countrywide, but a few favorites are Bački Monoštor secluded within Vojvodina’s "Amazon of Europe", the stone village of Gostuša on Stara Planina (Old Mountain) in the southeast, and end-of-the-road Kamena Gora in the highlands of southwestern Serbia.

How much money do I need for Serbia?

Serbia is generally good value, particularly the countryside, though costs get significantly higher in the capital, popular mountain and spa resorts or around major festivals. The local currency is dinar (RSD); ATMs and moneychangers are everywhere and credit cards are widely accepted, while cash is best in villages and useful for markets, newsstands or taxi rides. At the time of writing, €1 equals 117RSD.

• Hostel room: 1700–3100RSD

• Self-catering apartment: 2300–4600RSD

• Belgrade–Novi Sad high-speed train ticket: 660RSD

• Daily fare on Belgrade public transport: 120RSD

• Dinner for two: 2500–5000RSD

• Slice of burek (heavy pastry stuffed with meat or cheese): 120–160RSD

• Coffee: 150–300RSD

• Beer/pint at the bar: 350–550RSD

Is Serbia safe?

Despite misconceptions caused by its troubled recent history, Serbia is perfectly safe for travelers. You will be particularly welcomed in more rural areas, which don’t get many foreign visitors. As in any big city, watch out for pickpockets in Belgrade, especially on crowded public transport.

Are people in Serbia religious?

While the countryside is dotted with monasteries and Orthodox faith is a cornerstone of Serbian national identity, not many people are actually religious. There are significant Catholic and Muslim minorities in Vojvodina and southern Serbia respectively. You should be dressed modestly (with legs and shoulders covered) when entering churches and mosques.

How much English is spoken in Serbia?

The younger generation is usually fairly fluent in English. People working in the tourism industry will normally speak at least English and perhaps another major European language. In village homestays, your (often older) hosts may not speak English at all but any difficulty in verbal communication will be made up for with sincere hospitality.

What alphabet do they use in Serbia?

Serbian citizens switch between the Cyrillic and Latin alphabets without a second thought. Both are in official use and you’ll see them sharing space on street signs or restaurant menus. Cyrillic is mandatory in government institutions, and Latin is overwhelmingly used on the internet.