Things only Marseille locals know (and now you do too)

As an American living in Marseille, I’ve got the inside scoop while knowing just what visitors want. You need to know the best way to explore the city, what neighborhoods to visit, how to order pizza like a local, and why you’ll root for Olympique de Marseille even if you don’t like football.

Here are the top tips to make the most of your trip to Marseille.

1. Take the shuttle bus from the airport

Save money on taxis (they cost twice as much as Uber) by hopping on the shuttle bus. At 10€ each way, these navettes whisk you to Saint-Charles train station in the city center in under 30 minutes. Plus, the bus leaves every 10 minutes (20 minutes after hours), so no wasting time on waiting.

2. Come for 3 days – or longer – to get a true lay of the land

Plan on two or three days to see the city’s top sites like the Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica (aka the “Bonne Mère'', “Good Mother”), the modern MUCEM museum and the adjacent 17th-century Fort Saint-Jean. Stroll the boat-lined Vieux-Port and the cobblestone streets of the city’s oldest neighborhood, Le Panier. Stay another day to venture further out to Le Corbusier’s Brutalist masterpiece, La Cité Radieuse, or the Friche la Belle de Mai cultural center.

A longer stay gives you more time to enjoy the Mediterranean Sea. For nature lovers, there’s nothing like the limestone fjords at Calanques National Park. Witness their splendor on a breathtaking hike or a leisurely sail.

3. Dive into 111 neighborhoods

Locals liken the city to 111 villages. Each has its own personality. Multicultural Noailles shows how migration has shaped Marseille’s culture and cuisine. Family-friendly Longchamp is as chic as the palace that shares its name. The post-industrial fishing village of L’Estaque once inspired Cezanne.

4. Ditch the car. Rent a bike

Chaotic streets, crazy drivers, and limited parking make a mess of driving in Marseille. Public transport is a safer bet. Or rent one of the city’s electric bikes (Le Velo) to take the new path along the coastal road, Corniche Kennedy.

5. Pack good walking shoes

With its wobbly sidewalks and many hills, Marseille is best navigated in sturdy shoes. Case in point: the staggering climb to the city’s highest point, Notre-Dame de la Garde. Walking is the best way to experience the buzzing scooters, squawking seagulls, and rich diversity that make up Marseille.

6. Don’t forget your swimsuit

Marseille’s 26 miles of coastline serves up a buffet of beaches. The closest beach to the city center, Plage des Catalans is the most popular. Sun-worshippers squeeze like sardines on its soft sand. Anse de la Fausse Monnaie features flat boulders that are ideal to lézarder au soleil (sunbathing like a lizard). Nearby, the curved cove of Anse de Maldormé is perfect for a quick dip.

In the evening, pair the technicolor sunsets with a bottle of rosé and a pizza to-go as locals do. Don’t swim during or just after heavy rains, when the Mediterranean gets polluted by overflowing sewers.

7. Brace the mistral wind

Blessed with a mild climate year round, the mistral surprises most visitors. The legendary wind gusts up to 65 mph, knocking over patio umbrellas and blowing hats off unsuspecting heads. It can last for one day to a week. More than meteorological, the mistral is a cultural icon, a source of pride for the Marseillais who are strong enough to brave it. Plus, this natural vacuum cleaner is why the skies are such a blinding blue.

8. Leave your fancy clothes at home

The laid-back lifestyle of the south calls for casual wear that can be worn on the streets or by the sea. Pick up iconic striped shirts, marinières, espadrilles, or blue work jackets at France’s oldest hardware store, Maison Empereur. Sneakers are in fashion at any hour. Or make like a local in claquettes-chausettes, the sandal and sock combo made cool by the hometown rapper Jul.

9. Root for the home team

Proud to be the only French football team that has won Champions League (unlike their rival, Paris) Olympique de Marseille is revered like a religion across the city. Even those who don’t like football love l’OM. From August to May, fans fill the Velodrome stadium with a thunderous roar. If you can’t score a seat, the ambiance at Rookie’s Bar in the Vieux-Port can’t be beat.

10. Order a wood-fired pizza

Rumor has it that Marseille has more pizza parlors than NYC (exaggeration is the Marseille way.) Neapolitan immigrants brought pizza to the port city in the late 19th century. The Marseillais made it theirs by adding anchovies and Emmental cheese in the classic moité-moité (half and half.) Enjoy your pizza with a slice of history at the 80-year-old Chez Etienne in Le Panier or Chez Zé, a familial spot besides Calanques National Park (both pizzerias are cash only.) Per local tradition, order a pizza to share as an appetizer before digging in to other dishes.

11. Order a pastis by name

True pastis drinkers pledge allegiance to a brand. Ricard, the original, and 51 are the stalwarts. Local distillers of the Marseille-born spirit include Pastis de la Plaine and Château des Creissauds. The usual dosage is 5:1 cold water to pastis. The perfect thirst quencher for daytime drinking or apéro, the happy hour of le Sud.

12. Add ice to your wine without shame

Tourists used to never be able to find ice in France. That’s not the case in Marseille, where table wine is served with glaçons (ice cubes) to keep it cool on hot days. You can even order a giant goblet of champagne filled with ice, fittingly called a piscine (swimming pool).

13. Go beyond bouillabaisse

This simple fish stew has become mythical, with a hefty price tag to match. Most Marseillais are more likely to eat supions à l’ail (garlic-sautéed squid in garlic), moules gratinées (mussels topped with garlicky breadcrumbs) – can you sense a theme here? – or whole daurade (sea bream) or loup (sea bass). Fish-friendly spots include the nautically kitsch Boîte à Sardines, the Marseille brasserie Paule et Kopa, and Chez Paul in the fishing port of Les Goudes.

14. Drink the tap water

Is tap water safe to drink in Marseille? Oui! The city is reputed to have some of the best drinking water in France, despite being infamous for its pollution. Order a carafe d’eau (water) or cheekily ask for a bottle of Château la Pompe.

15. Don’t believe all the stereotypes

Marseille has a reputation for being dangerous. The truth is, the major crimes occur in neighborhoods far from where tourists tread. Be as street smart as you would in any city. Avoid walking solo at night. Don’t leave valuables in your car. Watch your belongings at the beach.

16. Keep an eye out for pickpockets

As in many large cities, tourists can be targets for pickpockets. Keep your purse, camera, and wallet close to your side in crowded areas and on public transport. Phone theft can be a problem. Pay close attention in Noailles’ busy streets and at major sites. Don’t leave your phone lying on an outdoor table within easy reach.