The sight of this looming outlier of the Arnhem Land escarpment makes it easy to understand its ancient importance to Aboriginal people. Its long, red-sandstone bulk, striped in places with orange, white and black, slopes up from surrounding woodland to fall away at one end in stepped cliffs. Below is Kakadu's best-known collection of rock art.
A 2km looped walking track (open 8am to sunset) takes you first to the Anbangbang Shelter, used for 20,000 years as a refuge and canvas. Next is the Anbangbang Gallery, featuring vivid Dreaming characters repainted in the 1960s. Look for the dangerous Nabulwinjbulwinj, a dangerous spirit who likes to eat females after banging them on the head with a yam. From here it's a short, steep walk to Gunwarddehwarde Lookout, with views of the Arnhem Land escarpment.
Nourlangie is at the end of a 12km sealed road that turns east off Kakadu Hwy, 21km south of Arnhem Hwy. Seven kilometres south is the turn-off to Muirella Park camping ground, with BBQs and excellent amenities.