One of Rio's oldest neighborhoods, this pretty area feels like a tiny slice of Portugal, with its old shuttered houses, quiet cobblestone streets and twittering birds. While there isn't a lot to do here (it's really just one long winding street), there are a few galleries open to visitors (look for 'atelier' signs) and a good local restaurant. Saturday is the liveliest time to visit.
To get here on foot, take the narrow uphill lane Ladeira João Homem, reachable just off Praça Mauá. The mosaic-covered staircase marks the entrance to the quarter.
