Lanterns at Qianhai Dongyuan/ Qianhai Beiyan (Lotus Lane) also known as The Back Lakes.

Dongyue Temple

Beijing


Dedicated to the Eastern Peak (Tài Shān) of China’s five Taoist mountains, this morbid Taoist shrine is an unsettling, albeit entertaining, place of worship. The highlight is the series of comically macabre diorama cubicles representing various 'departments' from the Taoist underworld.

A temple has stood on this spot for over 700 years since the Mongol-led Yuan dynasty, but these days it's almost lost in the sprawl. Note the fabulous páifāng (memorial archway) to the south, divided from the main shrine by the busy main road.

Inside, you can muse on life’s finalities by examining the various dust-caked diorama displays, some 72 in total, depicting such scenes as the 'Department for Wandering Ghosts' or the 'Department for Implementing 15 Kinds of Violent Death'. It’s not all doom and gloom: the luckless can check in at the 'Department for Increasing Good Fortune & Longevity'.

Other parts of the temple are no less fascinating. The cavernous Daiyue Hall (Dàiyuè Diàn) is consecrated to the God of Taishan, who sits inside, managing the 18 layers of hell. Visit during festival time, especially during the Chinese New Year and the Mid-Autumn Festival, and you’ll see the temple at its most vibrant.

Just outside the complex, in a small car park to the east, stands the handsome, but rather lonely Jiǔtiān Pǔhuā Gōng, a small temple hall, which is the only remaining structure of two other Taoist temples that once also stood in this area.


Lonely Planet's must-see attractions

Nearby Beijing attractions

1. Ritan Park

0.58 MILES

Landscaped like an ornamental Chinese garden, Ritan Park provides peaceful respite for the embassy district's diplomats and worker bees. The historical…

2. Galaxy Soho

0.65 MILES

After the CCTV Tower and the Bird's Nest Stadium, Beijing's Galaxy Soho trumpeted itself as the capital's next modern architectural landmark when it…

3. Zhihua Temple

0.81 MILES

Lost in a tumbledown hutong neighbourhood, this Buddhist temple is one of Beijing's best-preserved Ming dynasty structures. It was built in 1444 to honour…

4. Imperial Granaries

0.86 MILES

Several teetering old storehouses here once held grain and rice for the imperial family. Today they've been integrated into a fairly lacklustre enclave of…

5. Poly Art Museum

0.88 MILES

A thrilling discovery, this exquisite collection of treasures is hidden halfway up an office building! China's state-owned Poly Group has funnelled a…

6. CCTV Headquarters

1.19 MILES

Known locally as Da Kucha (大裤衩, Big Pants), the 234m-tall CCTV Tower is an architectural fantasy that appears to defy gravity. Designed by Rem Koolhaas…

7. Ancient Observatory

1.25 MILES

Astronomers have been studying the mysteries of the cosmos here since 1442. Crowning the 18m-high brick tower – an earlier version of which would have…

8. Shijia Hutong Museum

1.25 MILES

Shijia Hutong has seen plenty of action over the decades, as this spiffy museum in a rebuilt sìhéyuàn (courtyard residence) explains. English is ample…