Samograd, the largest cave of this extraordinary complex, has four beautiful chambers – the biggest is large enough to host a concert every Easter Monday. Tours (not suitable for small children) descend 480 handmade stairs into the depths; check the website for departure times. Wear warm clothes and sensible shoes. The cave complex lies on the edge of Perušić, a small town 12km north of Gospić.
Perušić is also notable for its pretty onion-domed church and its perfect chess-piece Turkish castle.