Follow the north-coast road out of Vathy for 10km and look for a signposted dirt road to the left leading to Livadaki Beach. Here, tropical azure waters lap against soft sand in a long-sheltered cove with facing islets. The water is warm and very shallow for a long way out, and Livadaki’s mellow summer beach parties easily spill into it.
The excellent beach bar serves snacks and drinks. For a classic taverna, get back on the main road and drive down to the hamlet of Agia Paraskevi, where you can enjoy a meditative lunch or dinner with the backdrop of multicoloured boats moored in a picturesque bay.