Remote 600-year-old Ensa Monastery, 35km north of Sumur on the west bank of the Nubra, feels like it's close to the end of the world. The monastery itself is small and home to only one monk, but a lovely kora path takes you past dozens of white chortens and a hermitage retreat to offer fabulous valley views. It's well worth the trip.
The monastery sits high above the west bank road at the end of a looping 3km access road. To get here, cross the river bridge just past the police checkpoint north of Panamik.
With enough time and petrol, explorers can continue further south to Kuri Gompa and Charasa Gompa, or north to Yerma Gompa.