Almodóvar’s monumental and sinister-looking castle dominates the view from far and wide, rising almost sheer above the Río Guadalquivir with just enough room for the AVE high-speed railway to squeeze in between. It was founded in the 8th century but owes most of its present appearance to post-Reconquista rebuilding. Because the castle had never been taken by force, Pedro I (‘the Cruel’) used it as a treasure store. Its sense of impregnability is still potent within the massive walls.
You can climb up several of the nine towers, the mightiest being the Torre del Homenaje (Tower of Homage), which also contains the dungeon, where medieval conditions are re-created by a mannequin tableau. A film on the castle's history, with English subtitles, is screened in the chapel.
There is parking below the castle, or you can drive up the driveway and park just below the entrance, saving a 600m uphill walk.