At 952m, Sixty Stone Mountain offers one of the east coast's most mesmerising landscapes. Zigzag up eight kilometres through subtropical foliage to the first of nearly a dozen viewing pavilions which survey a surreal upland area of steeply undulating farmland hillocks. Many have been planted with day lilies. When blooming in early summer, these turn the already glorious landscape into an unforgettable golden carpet, counterpointed with a backdrop of darkly brooding mountain forests plunging back into the Rift Valley.
In summer, several farms on the uplands open B&Bs and sell a variety of lily-based comestibles, including ice creams. However, outside midsummer, one of the only places to stay open is Wang You Yuen (60stonedaylily.hlbnb.tw, 0972-837 928), combining a fairly basic motel with a decent little coffee shop.
You'll need a vehicle to get here: turn east off Hwy 9 at Km308.6, around 12km south of Yuli. Less than two kilometres up the winding access road, consider a short diversion to Dongfu Buddhist Nunnery. It's a new structure set in a lovely manicured garden and has a curious set of giant figurines in the temple. This is a fine place to spot the Taiwan Blue Magpie (台灣藍鵲; Táiwān Lánquè) as a few pairs breed here in April.