Yongshi (Warriors') Fort is one of a pair of 1970s military bunkers in Huangtso. Descend through a 200m-long tunnel that now contains a museum about landmines.
In one section, you must tiptoe gingerly to avoid setting off an explosion (simulated, fortunately). Then exit via Yongshi's twin brother, the immodestly named Iron Men’s Fort (鐵漢堡; Tiěhànbǎo).
Facing Yongshi Fort, the unassuming yet top-quality restaurant San Ceng Lou (三層樓, literally '3 Floors') is famed for its local taro-based dishes, including huge servings of taro and bean ice (芋泥冰, yùní bīng).