Venice
Decked out in primary colours and comfy leather couches, the bar of Hotel Ala takes its name from a countess convicted of a particularly sordid murder in…
Must-see nightlife in Italy
Rome
A local landmark, this green kiosk next to the Ponte Milvio is perennially popular with the young crowd from Rome's wealthy northern suburbs. It might…
Southwestern Sardinia
If a glass of cool prosecco sounds good, join the locals at this popular pub. There's seating in a polished wood interior or, better still, on its…
The Veneto
Recycled timber, brickwork and peeling tin lamps set a warm, contemporary vibe at this new-school wine bar. Scan the blackboard for regional, well-priced…
Milan
Overlooking Parco Sempione, the Triennale's cafe is a large, white, light space with an open kitchen and fittings displaying suitable design cred. It's a…
Rome
To Rome what Studio 54 was to New York, the massive subterranean Piper Club has been a nightlife fixture for 52 years, and it just keeps on going. It…
Taormina
A few kilometres outside Taormina, in the hilltop community of Castelmola, lies this chuckle-inducing bar. It's famous for its unconventional decor, which…
Turin
A Quadrilatero favourite that's been here for over two decades, Tre Galli is spacious and rustic, cool but warm. It's a fine spot for a drink at any time,…
Reggio Calabria
This gelateria/cafe is one of the prime people-watching spots on Reggio's lungomare. Across from the main premises you'll find a sea-facing terrace…
Bergamo
The Fly is one of several pubs in the Città Alta plugging birra artigianale (craft beer) made by a couple of local Bergamo micro-brewers. Look out for…
Eastern Sardinia
Going strong since 1875, Nuoro’s oldest cafe is something of a local institution. The interior recalls a more glamorous age, with frescoed cherubs, marble…
Alba
Squeeze through the door of this friendly spot and sift through a list of over 350 varieties or, if in doubt, have a Barolo. Come at lunch or dinner for…
Bari
You'll experience friendly service at this small refined cafe with a vaulted stone ceiling and faintly Parisian air. With an all-day menu, it serves a…
San Giovanni & Testaccio
Gay-friendly L’Alibi is one of Rome's best-known clubs, hosting regular parties and serving up a mash of house, hip-hop, Latino, pop and dance music to a…
Trieste
Virtually unchanged since its 1830 opening, the rich ceiling reliefs, primrose-yellow walls and Viennese mirrors here couldn't be any more evocative. Take…
Rome
Starting life as an anti-establishment centro sociale, Brancaleone serves up popular club nights with top DJs and live gigs. Rap, hip-hop, drum and bass,…
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo
This might seem like an identikit Irish pub, but the craic at Finnegans, in the centre of Monti, has Italian twists – the clientele are well-groomed…
Lazio
Opposite the cathedral, this is one of several bars and cafes clustered around Piazza Regina Margherita. Join the locals on the small square-side terrace…
Alghero
One of Alghero’s big-name clubs, the summer-only Ruscello attracts a young party-loving crowd with its three dance floors and DJ-fuelled soundtrack of…
Trastevere & Gianicolo
There’s no sign outside (even under the thick ivy), and it looks like an ordinary, rundown bar, but this is a long-standing Trastevere favourite and…
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo
When in Rome…do as the Romans do and head to an Irish pub. This one attracts a cheerful crowd of young expats and Roman Anglophiles. The atmosphere is…
Trento
With its vintage aesthetic and laid-back staff, this hideaway bar is a departure from Trento's conservative norm. Students congregate here for an…
Milan
Retaining its theatrical character, this one-time bordello, converted by the curia into a pharmacy, now serves 'alchemical' cocktails for the pleasure of…
Milan
A shakeup in management means that long-term fans of Rebelot are in for a bit of a surprise. The tapas-like dishes now veer towards the traditional and…
Genoa
Pre-dating cappuccinos, Klainguti opened in 1828 and its Mittel European charms, and presumably its strudel and pastries, had Verdi and Garibaldi coming…
Birre da Tutto il Mondo o Quasi
Venice
While the rest of Venice is awash in wine, 'Beers from Around the World or Almost' offers more than 100 brews, including reasonably priced bottles of…
Venice
Pose as glitterati for the night at this gold-mosaic hotel bar, where top-shelf cocktails are thoughtfully served with bar nibbles. It runs a series of…
Genoa
A bit of Turin disconnected and relocated 150km to the south, this tiled art-deco showpiece was (and is) a favourite hang-out of Genoa's intellectuals…
Venice
With its exposed wooden beams and a bar laden with tasty snacks such as polpette (meatballs) and baccalà (cod), brightly lit Officina is a classic little…
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo
Located near Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, the granddaddy of Rome’s Irish pubs sticks to the formula that has served it so well for over 40 years:…
Trastevere & Gianicolo
This little kiosk is one of several near the Garibaldi statue. It serves up coffees and drinks, including cocktails. There are a few tables to perch at…
Naples
Proud waiters in waistcoats serve potent espresso and cool Camparis to cross-legged businessmen and chichi shopaholics. Take a seat on the terrace (no one…
Bologna
This indie bookshop with an affiliated cafe-bar next door is where postgrads sit down to write up their theses in a room decorated with antifascismo…
Eastern Sardinia
High on the Altopiano, this simple bar with a huge parking lot opposite the trailhead for Cala Goritzè makes a welcome stop for morning cappuccinos or…
Venice
For sunsets as rosy as your Aperol spritz, arrive early to snag canalside seating at this local favourite. The Dodo crew offers a warm welcome to…
Friuli Venezia Giulia
This is the bar that's open when all the genteel wine bars are shuttered (and where all the hospitality staff head after their shifts are done), but it's…
Venice
Other places around this campo cater to spritz-pounding students, but this chandelier-lit medieval osteria (tavern) sets the scene for gentle flirting…
Eastern Sardinia
All kitted out in decor hyping the fabulous Route SS125 drive, this simple cafe-bar sits atop the spectacular Genna ’e Silana pass and offers a welcome…
Cagliari
One for beer fans, this is an unpretentious, no-frills pub, little changed over the past two decades. It has a fine selection of guest beers, bottled and…
Syracuse
Back after a major revamp, this polished all-day cafe, bistro and bar is as good for an espresso as it is for a Sicilian vino or beer. Bites include a…
