Trastevere & Gianicolo
A neighbourhood veteran, Ivo’s has been slinging pizzas for over four decades, and still the hungry come. With football on the TV in the corner and the…
Must-see restaurants in Italy
San Polo & Santa Croce
Traditionally a fritolin was an eatery where diners sat at a communal table and tucked into fried fish. This is the modern equivalent, albeit smarter,…
Genoa
Encased in one of the oldest medieval houses in the city, dating from the early 13th century, Ombre Rosse has a dark but romantic interior, full of books,…
Siena
The atmosphere here is pure Siena neighbourhood osteria: gingham tablecloths, postcards tacked to the rafters, and pictures of Palio jockeys on the walls…
Centro Storico
The oldest and most picturesque – also the most expensive – of Rome's neighbourhood markets. Each weekday morning, shoppers mix with tourists and visitors…
Camogli
You’ll drink your fill of over 130 fine local and Italian wines in this elegant bar. To accompany them, choose something off the seasonal menu, such as…
Centro Storico
A perennially popular wine bar just off Piazza Navona, with an always-busy terrace and narrow, bottle-lined interior. Choose your tipple first – the list…
Oristano
Housed in a former 17th-century granary, this brick-vaulted restaurant enjoys a good local reputation. Hearty country fare dominates the menu – try the…
Ragusa
This cosy, popular Sicilian-Slovak–run eatery near the Giardino Ibleo serves up hearty, home-style dishes. Slovak-inspired offerings such as goulash and…
Naples
Hidden off the chaotic Pignasecca market, this discreet but delicious tavola calda ('hot table') is run by head chef Enzo, who has been feeding hordes of…
Como
For something a little different, head to this congenial, easy-going spot near Como's waterfront. Famed far and wide for bountiful, creatively topped…
Turin
Perfect for a casual lunch or dinner, this mini-Eataly has shaded tables on the lovely pedestrian stretch of Lagrange. Food is fresh, simple and quick –…
Belluno
The display of mangled cutlery in the window of this historic building in the heart of Belluno has, we can reassure you, not been left by disgruntled…
Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale
This hole-in-the-wall chain pizza al taglio (by the slice) place is busy with local workers, lured in by an enticing range of toppings that proffer…
Venice
Oniga serves exemplary sarde in saor (sardines in onion marinade), seasonal pastas and the odd Hungarian classic like goulash (a nod to former chef Annika…
Oltrarno
Candlelit Gesto is all about eco-sustainability, so much so that all the furniture in the well-scrubbed vintage space is salvaged or upcycled and diners…
Arezzo
Local, seasonal produce forms the backbone of the regional fare served at this long-standing address, which is located beneath the porticoes of Arezzo's…
Centro Storico
For a taste of Roman-style fish and chips, search out this spartan joint on a tiny piazza off Via dei Giubbonari. A classic Roman friggitoria (shop…
Livorno
The list of secondi is almost purely fish at this smart old-world osteria near the water. The traditional, home-style cooking lures the punters: many opt…
Tivoli
This unpretentious trattoria near Villa d'Este lures in strolling visitors as they wander in to Tivoli's historic centre. There are pizzas but the…
Valle d'Aosta
In a wood-panelled dining room with red curtains bunched at the windows, David and Elizabeth Allera keep Valdostan traditions alive, serving bowls of…
San Giovanni & Testaccio
This neighbourhood trattoria is the sort of place that's busy on a wet Wednesday lunch in November. It's far from refined with its dated decor and brusque…
San Polo & Santa Croce
Paper placemats, pop tunes on the radio and glowing customer feedback plastered up the wall: Al Bacco sets a casual, convivial scene for decent, thin…
Venice
Three monumental Murano chandeliers dangle from this swanky restaurant's exposed rafters, but in summer you're going to want to nab one of the tables on…
Sassari
Fronting a pretty cobbled square, this is a reliable spot for traditional island fare. Carnivores with a yen for culinary adventure can go for hardcore…
Trieste
Perpetually busy Genuino packs them in for big salads, fish, wild rice and roast vegetable combination plates, seasonal soup and chicken burgers. It's…
Vatican City, Borgo & Prati
On a quiet side street just off the main route from Ottaviano-San Pietro metro station to St Peter's, this brassy pizzeria-cum-restaurant draws a mainly…
Perugia
Fulsome, filling food at honest prices is the winning recipe at this long-standing student haunt. What you eat depends on the day (or month), so go on a…
Turin
Gelati in many flavours and guises is available at this legendary spot on Piazza Carignano. Pepino is best known for the Penguino (aka ice cream dipped in…
Trastevere & Gianicolo
The Trastevere branch of the Vatican original is right on the main tourist track and is designed to milk passersby like the cows supplying the key gelato…
Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale
The original for gourmet flavours like ginger and cinnamon, ricotta, whisky or light-as-air chocolate meringue, this gelateria near the Trevi Fountain is…
Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale
Step in under the faded gilt-and-mirrored sign and you’ll feel as though you’ve gone back in time. Once a coach house, then a tavern, this building became…
Salerno
The surrounding Via Roma area may be one of the city’s trendiest, but there’s nothing remotely flash about the seafood served up in this old stalwart…
San Polo & Santa Croce
Wood panelling sets the scene at this veteran trattoria, known for giving contemporary verve to regional classics such as bigoli in salsa (wholemeal pasta…
Ancona
Housed in a tatty pink building across from the railway station, this old-school restaurant is unlikely to charm you with its good looks. However, it…
Centro Storico
Join the lunchtime crowds at Enoteca Corsi, a genuine old-style osteria (casual tavern). The look is no-frills – paper tablecloths, fading framed prints,…
Centro Storico
Named after the historic fig tree on the piazza outside, this fashionably retro bar is open from breakfast through to dinner. The shabby chic decor –…
Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo
This place promises more than it delivers. We love the fact that it operates the ‘zero kilometre’ rule (as much as possible), meaning that most things you…
Palau
On the road down to the harbour, C'era una Volta makes a convenient spot for a fixed-price lunch: €25 gets you a starter, a main course, wine, water and…
Trastevere & Gianicolo
This tiny and unfussy corner cafe coddles customers with its famed maritozzi, sweet yeasty buns split open and filled to the brim with freshly whipped…
