Must-see restaurants in Northwestern Italy

  • Osteria all’Inferno dal 1905

    La Spezia

    Go early to score a table at this sprawling subterranean osteria, a famed destination for la cucina spezzina (La Spezia cooking). True to its name, this…

  • Combal Zero

    Turin

    Davide Scabin's tasting menus are theatrical, visual, visceral and mischievous, but despite such experimentation they are still deeply rooted in…

  • Revello

    Camogli

    If you're not on a mission to taste-test every town's focacceria, Revello is a suitably respectable choice if you had to choose just one. Pick up slices…

  • Ristorante Rabayà

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    Rabayà, on the southern fringe of the village, has the ambience of dining at a private home. The signature veal shoulder in Barbaresco works better in its…

  • Da Paolo

    Camogli

    Up a back lane from the waterfront, stylish Da Paolo has the town's best fish and seafood, all fresh off the boats and done in a variety of simple local…

  • Blue Marlin

    Vernazza

    With outdoor tables on the main drag and a lively soundtrack, Blue Marlin draws a steady stream of locals and visitors throughout the day. Stop in for…

  • Osteria del Borgo Vecchio

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    A sweet surprise in meat-centric Piedmont, Osteria del Borgo Vecchio does parallel vegetarian and meat menus, with all organic ingredients and all pasta…

  • Osteria dei Sognatori

    Alba

    Menu? What menu? You get whatever's in the pot at this dimly lit place. Munch on the theatrically large breadsticks while you wait for an array of…

  • L'Acino

    Turin

    Half a dozen tables and a legion of enamoured followers mean this inviting restaurant is hard to get into. Book ahead or arrive at the stroke of 7.30pm…

  • L'Osteria 1880

    Aosta

    A hip but friendly spot on the main drag, L'Osteria serves heart-warming Aostian comfort fare: wild boar in pinot noir with rosemary over polenta, creamy…

  • La Torre

    Vernazza

    Tucked along a hillside pathway just outside of the centre, La Torre serves Genovese-style trofie al pesto (a pasta with pesto), seafood spaghetti,…

  • Alberto Gelateria

    Corniglia

    A Corniglia mainstay since 1999, Alberto Melandri serves some of the best gelato for miles around. Try the basilico, made from basil grown in his garden…

  • Croix de Ville

    Aosta

    Croix de Ville's smart, bustling dining room serves up contemporary Italian favourites such as beef tagliata (rare slices) with rocket and Parmesan, and…

  • La Pia Centenaria

    La Spezia

    Founded in 1887, La Pia is a much-loved icon in La Spezia. Piping hot slices of farinata (chickpea flour flat bread) is the big draw, though there's also…

  • Gofri Piemontéisa

    Turin

    Gofri, thin waffles snap cooked in hot irons, are a traditional dish from the mountainous regions of northern Piedmont and have been reinvented here by a…

  • Ristorante Del Cambio

    Turin

    Crimson velvet, glittering chandeliers, baroque mirrors and a timeless air greet you at this grande dame of the Turin dining scene, regularly patronised…

  • La Posada Ristorante

    Corniglia

    Near the top of the stairs leading up from the train station, La Posada is one of Corniglia's most memorable settings for an al fresco meal. On a terrace…

  • Mezzaluna

    Turin

    One of Turin's first vegan restaurants, Mezzaluna serves traditional Piemontese dishes with organic, vegan ingredients. Try bagna caoda (a traditional…

  • Guido Ristorante

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    The acclaimed fairy-tale-like space that is the Guido Ristorante is a place that people have been known to cross borders to visit, especially for the veal…

  • La Cantina del Macellaio

    Riomaggiore

    A surprising find in seafood-centric Cinque Terre, La Cantina del Macellaio fires up melt-in-your-mouth braised beef, pasta with wild boar and a few other…

  • La Botega Del Gusto

    Genoa

    Genovese fast food done in the most authentic and enticing of ways can be had at this backstreet hole in the wall. Come for a quick and easy plate of…

  • Perino Vesco

    Turin

    Cult Slow Food baker Andrea Perino turns out dense, fragrant torta langarola (hazelnut cake), naturally yeasted panettone and focaccia that draws sighs…

  • È Cucina

    Turin

    Northern Italians are fond of a 'concept' and Bolognese chef Cesare Marretti's concept here is sorpresa (surprise). Beyond the choice of meat, fish or…

  • Colle del Telegrafo

    Riomaggiore

    Perched on a ridge south of Riomaggiore, where the old telegraph line used to be strung, the views from the Colle del Telegrafo are spectacular. But they…

  • Officina 34

    Genoa

    Genoa is a long way from Manhattan or Berlin, but that urban aesthetic is in full force at Officina 34. It's a beautifully fitted-out space in a pretty…

  • Pizzeria Savô

    Genoa

    Gourmet pizza in Italy seems a little, well, ironic, with the rest of the world so keen to do authentic Italian pizza. While the pizzas here are…

  • Più di un Gelato

    Turin

    Near Piazza Carlo Alberto, this eye-catching gelateria doles out creamy perfection in generous servings of nocciola (hazelnut), arancia rossa (blood…

  • L'Altro Eden

    Santa Margherita Ligure

    A seafood place right on the docks, yes, but this grey-and-white streamlined vaulted space is a maritime kitsch-free zone. Romantic and cosy on colder…

  • Il Gabbiano

    Corniglia

    One of the only places where you’ll find refreshment on the Sentiero Azzuro, this cafe sits alongside the trail (on the Mediterranean side) in Prevo. Il…

  • Pane e Tulipani

    Genoa

    Hectic times rule at this poetically named bakery: everyone wants what they're selling. Drop by any time for one of their several varieties of focaccia or…

  • Rio Bistrot

    Riomaggiore

    One of Riomaggiore's top dining destinations, Rio Bistrot earns rave reviews for its beautifully prepared seafood dishes – with selections changing daily…

  • Gambero Rosso

    Vernazza

    If you've been subsisting on focaccia, Gambero's house specials – tegame di Vernazza (anchovies with baked potatoes and tomatoes), grilled rock octopus or…

  • Ö Bansin

    Rapallo

    Ligurian comfort food – salt cod fritters, chickpea soup, spinach-stuffed pasta with walnut sauce, mussels gratin – gets served up here with a minimum of…

  • Anciua

    Porto Venere

    A perfect spot to pick up something to snack on while dangling your feet in the drink, this is Ligurian street food made with love. Grab a panini stuffed…

  • Margutte Polenta da Strada

    Turin

    For a satisfying midday snack, make your way to this tiny shop with just a handful of seats a few blocks from Piazza Castelo. Creamy rich polenta is…

  • Pasta & Basta

    Ventimiglia

    Near the seafront on the border side of town (overlooking the new marina) you'll find elegant Pasta & Basta. Various house-made fresh pasta can be mixed…

  • Barolo Friends

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    An easy, contemporary place that does Piedmontese staples but, helpfully, doesn't keep to rigid service hours or menu formats. Need a quick vitello…

  • Focacceria Sant'Agostino

    Turin

    Liguria's moreish focaccia has crossed the border and Sant'Agostino's is one of the best. Whether it's plain, stuffed with straccino cheese or topped with…

  • Antinè

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    Sigh-worthy meals are to be had at this justifiably well-regarded restaurant, upstairs in what used to be the village prison. They do the Piedmontese…

  • Caffè Ducale

    San Remo

    Italian panache with a perfectly positioned terrace in front make this elegant cafe-enoteca-salon de thé one of the most appealing spots in town for a…