Must-see restaurants in Northwestern Italy

  • La Cantinetta

    Langhe, Roero & Monferrato

    A sunny outside terrace is the big draw here, although you'll be far from unhappy with the menu of local dishes: Ligurian rolled rabbit, risotto with…

  • Urbicia Vivas

    San Remo

    Basking in a quiet medieval square in San Remo's remarkable old town, Urbicia is slavishly faithful to old Ligurian recipes, with a strong bias towards…

  • Bellavista

    La Spezia

    A short stroll from Piazza Cavour, Bellavista hits all the right notes, with high-quality produce, good service and creative dishes all served up at a…

  • Trattoria degli Artisti

    Aosta

    Fabulous Valdostan cuisine is dished up at this dark and cosy trattoria, tucked down an alleyway off Via E Aubert. Antipasti such as puff pastry filled…

  • Osteria dell'Oca

    Aosta

    Oca means 'goose' and there are plenty, both on the menu and reproduced in hilariously kitsch china forms around the room. This quaint perch under an…

  • Il Porticciolo

    Vernazza

    In a perfect location on the waterfront, Il Porticciolo whips up heavenly perfection in its all-natural gelato. Indulge in fruit flavors like strawberry,…

  • Rooster

    Genoa

    A cute little hole in the wall that breathes new life into the traditional rotisserie chicken. Birds are all free range and local; buy them whole (from €9…

  • Vecchia Rapallo

    Rapallo

    Seafood is the star here, and it's done well with the occasional creative touch. House-made stuffed pastas have particular appeal – sea bream ravioli…

  • Bütiega

    Corniglia

    If you need a break from sit-down restaurant fare, pay a visit to this lovely deli and food shop. The front counter offers oven-baked veggies, made-to…

  • La Dolce Morella

    Genoa

    A selection of beautiful traditional gelato flavours are complemented by a creative menu of semifreddo-filled cups, ice-cream sandwiches and chocolate…

  • Il Pescato Cucinato

    Riomaggiore

    Riomaggiore's standout street food is a mound of fresh fried seafood – calamari, anchovies, shrimp, cod – stuffed into a paper cone and served on the go…

  • IL Porticciolo Foodrink

    Manarola

    Opposite the more sedate restaurant of the same name, this lively spot with its Latin grooves serves up a small selection of inexpensive specials (pasta…

  • Antico Forno della Casana

    Genoa

    A much-loved local institution, this back-lane bakery fires up some of Genoa's best focaccia, which are available in countless varieties. The Antico Forno…

  • Marina Piccola

    Manarola

    A number of fish dishes, including some tasty antipasti such as soppressata di polpo (sliced boiled octopus) are served up here along with right-by-the…

  • Gianni Franzi

    Vernazza

    Traditional Cinque Terre seafood (mussels, seafood ravioli and lemon anchovies) has been served up in this harbourside trattoria since the 1960s. When it…

  • Dau Cila

    Riomaggiore

    Perched within pebble-lobbing distance of Riomaggiore's wee harbour, Dau Cila is a smart, kitsch-free zone, and specialises in classic seafood and hyper…

  • Miky

    Monterosso

    If you're looking for something a little more elegant than a seafront fry-up, Miky does a seasonal fish menu in a moody, modern dining room. Booking ahead…

  • Caffè degli Argenti

    Turin

    Sip cups of molten coffee in the glorious, gold-on-black Sala Cinese of the Venaria Reale palace. Also on order are top-quality panini, pastries and ice…

  • Dai Pescatori

    La Spezia

    Down on the waterfront, this casual spot is a local institution for delicious plates of octopus salad, steamed mussels and fried fish plates. It's quite…

  • Gelateria 5 Terre

    Manarola

    In the running for the title of Cinque Terre's best ice-cream joints. Superbly crafted flavours, including vegan and lactose-free options, never fail to…

  • Il Porticciolo

    Manarola

    One of several restaurants lining the main route down to the harbour, this is a popular spot for an alfresco seafood feast. Expect seaside bustle and a…

  • L'Ancora della Tortuga

    Monterosso

    Perched on a cliff overlooking the crashing waves, this long-running spot serves high-end seafood-topped pastas, grilled fish and roast meat dishes in a…

  • KM0

    Corniglia

    This casual spot serves simple but delicious market-fresh fare. Think well-balanced seafood risotto, tomato and mozzarella salad, hearty plates of ravioli…

  • Pan e Vin

    Corniglia

    An all-around good option, no matter the time of day. Friendly staff serve up hearty breakfasts, focaccia sandwiches, wine and appetiser specials, and a…

  • Green

    Savona

    A popular gathering spot for all – families, young couples, visitors, old timers with small dogs – Green is an easy-going spot with a spacious covered…

  • Slurp!

    Monterosso

    Across from the seaside promenade, Slurp! is an obligatory stop when strolling the waterfront. In-house made gelato comes in a variety of rich flavours…

  • Vicolo Intherno

    La Spezia

    Take a seat around chunky wooden tables beneath beamed ceilings at this buzzing Slow Food–affiliated restaurant and wash down the torte di verdure …

  • Gelateria Profumo

    Genoa

    A wonderfully old-fashioned place, with fragrant scoops appearing from under metal-topped vats. The panera (a Genovese coffee-and-cream blend), creamy…

  • Vino e Farinata

    Savona

    In the cobbled centre, this much-loved local spot serves up outstanding farinata (chickpea flour flat bread), as well as delectable, simply prepared…

  • Ristorante Puny

    Portofino

    Puny's harbourside location is the one you've come to Portofino for and the owners treat everyone like they're a visiting celeb. The food sticks loyally…

  • La Lampara

    Riomaggiore

    There are always lots of tourists here but you won't feel like one as the service is so genuinely personable. Fish dishes predominate, though the pizza…

  • Caffè Excelsior

    Portofino

    A fashionable restaurant overlooking the port, Caffè Excelsior is a good perch with romantic outdoor booths – where Greta Garbo used to hide behind dark…

  • Focaccia e Dintorni

    Genoa

    Punt a football anywhere in Genoa and you’re bound to hit somewhere that sells focaccia. This focacceria sells a huge range of focaccia slices, pizza,…

  • Restaurant Larossa

    Alba

    Young chef Andrea Larossa has been wowing them from this unusual basement space for a few years now. This is Italian gastronomy with all its flourishes…

  • Bataclan

    Aosta

    You might be lured here by the pizza (which is good), but you'll stay on for the atmosphere, with convivial staff, happy locals and a wonderful position…

  • Ruràl Pizza

    Turin

    This happy, pretty pizzeria set in an old glassworks does Sicilian-style pizza using good-quality ingredients, along with rather fancy desserts.

  • Pinky

    Piedmont

    The perennially popular pizzeria Pinky is a skiers' favourite, not to mention a post-bar pit stop. During the season, it also has live music.

  • La Focacceria di Teobaldo

    Genoa

    Serves up tasty focaccia slices just a short stroll from the Stazione Principe. Great for grabbing a snack while waiting for your train.

  • Contesto Alimentare

    Turin

    This small dining room is run by a friendly young couple and makes a nice change from historic, moody Turin. A simple, architecturally astute fit-out…

  • Mangiabuono

    Genoa

    With gingham tablecloths and a cheery clatter emanating from the kitchen, Mangiabuono remains one of the city's fabulously unfancy trattorias. Come and…